The Kentucky Barbecue Book. By Wes Berry. (2013. Pp. 356. $27.95. Hardcover. Lexington: University Press of Kentucky. 663 South Limestone Street, Lexington KY 40508-4008. www.kentuckypress.com) ISBN: 978-0-8131-4179-4.
For those of us who survived the Kentucky winter of 2013/14, we continue to embrace every second of summer that is humanly possible. Since summer in Kentucky usually means picnics, get-togethers, and cooking outdoors, an exploration of Kentucky’s barbecue industry seems like a perfect fit. Although, you might be asking why we would feature a barbecue book on a site that focuses on Kentucky Ancestry/History. That is the beauty of this book: It not only explores the regional differences and unique dishes of these Kentucky barbecue palaces, it also delves into the local culinary history of each area.
When researching the lives of our ancestors, the local history or community “flavor” can be invaluable. Yes, this book was published just last year, but the long held traditions of cooking barbecue is history rich. In many cases, the recipes, cooking methods, naming traditions, and stories are many decades old, yet still bold and vitally alive with each bite experienced. It is apparent that the author was not just interested in barbecue, but in capturing the essence of this Kentucky tradition, in all of its colorful nuances. What he captured can be used in many ways: as a travel guide for savoring the amazing flavors of Kentucky barbecue, as a cultural study of regional cooking traditions, and most importantly as a portrait of the people behind the barbecue. Again, just as a reminder, some of the traditions he captures are generations old. The stories that flow with the sauce are just as spectacular, and just as spicy.
Another aspect of this book that might interest researchers is the connection to politics. The author notes the importance of stump speeches and feeding the masses that listen to them. Those listeners not only stomach the politics, but must enjoy the barbecue to make it all go down easier. With this in mind, he explores the wonders of burgoo, a strong Kentucky tradition that holds an air of mystery. Also tied to politics, burgoo comes in various shapes, sizes, and personalities. That is not to say that Kentuckians aren’t passionate about their burgoo, quite the contrary. Berry respectfully addresses the variations and follows the varied trails of origin.
Overall, this is one of those titles that can be useful for various reasons, all of which will enhance your understanding of Kentucky’s cooking and barbecue traditions. Enjoy the stories, the people, the guide, and the recipes. Yes, there are sauce recipes in here! Go out and get yourself a copy to get grilling something special for the Holiday, or the rest of the summer!
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